Nicola Yates

Head of Textile Conservation

I look after and preserve the textile objects in the Museum’s collection – everything from flags and uniforms through to the textiles used on arctic expeditions such as tents and fur sleeping bags. Our collection also includes things like moccasin and shot pouches made from skin, with porcupine quillwork embroidery. There’s sailors’ craftwork too, such as the embroidered pictures that they stitched during their long voyages away at sea.

Textile objects vary greatly in size from the largest flag in the collection – the Spanish Ensign flown at the Battle of Trafalgar – down to buttons like the Royal Naval Pattern button of 1807.

My work involves hands-on treatment. For example, I might need to support a very weak, torn textile by putting it onto a similar but new fabric. The two layers have to be joined together by stitching using very fine needles and threads. Occasionally I use a specially designed adhesive if the fabric is too weak to stitch or has large painted areas. This work helps to prolong the life of the object and hopefully allows it to go on display here, or on loan to another institution – so more people can see it.

One particular interest I have is painted flags. Recently I worked on our Chinese Pirate Flag, which shows the Goddess Tian Hou. Many Chinese symbols have been painted onto the cotton flag, so I used an adhesive to attach the support. Stitching would have made permanent holes through the painted areas.

My favourite textile to talk about

My favourite textile is the uniform that Nelson was wearing when he was shot at the Battle of Trafalgar. It’s probably the most famous textile in our collection and it comes under my care. The uniform is complete with blood stains and a hole from his bullet wound.

At the moment we are undertaking research to ensure that it is not incurring too much damage through its more or less permanent display in the Nelson’s Navy gallery. This is why the coat is very dimly lit, as the best place to store textiles is in the dark!

The question I'm asked most often

How should I look after and store an old uniform?

Textiles should be kept in a cool, dry, dark place where they can be regularly inspected. If a uniform is strong and good in condition it can be hung on a shaped padded hanger with an overall cover of washed cotton. Otherwise it is best stored flat, wrapped in acid-free tissue paper within an acid-free box. Any folds should be packed with rolls and pads of acid free tissue to prevent sharp creases forming. Do not store too many objects in one box as this may squash and damage the objects.

It is important to check the objects from time to time to make sure there are no signs of insect attack. Things to look for include actual live insects, small holes that weren’t there before, moth cases and signs of eggs which resemble lots of tiny black balls. If you suspect insect attack seek further advice from a textile conservator.

For further information about this and other aspects of caring for textiles please go to the Conservation Register. You will also find information here about finding an accredited conservator in your area.