This area considers the introduction of traditionally male nautical styles into women's wardrobe, the adoption of sailor styles to create gender-blurring looks and their use as potent images of masculinity, helping to position the sailor as a modern gay icon. Key objects include an outfit designed and worn by Adam Ant, a 'pirate-style' ensemble by John Galliano and an haute couture outfit by John-Paul Gaultier.

© V & A Images/Victoria and Albert Museum, London Mr Freedom' sailor suit, 1974

Tommy Roberts
nylon satin

This man's sailor suit typifies the look associated with the 'glam rock' movement of the early 1970s. Glam rock, led by musicians such as David Bowie and Marc Bolan of T-Rex, sought out 'glamorous' and playful styles using luxurious fabrics such as faux fur, velvet and satin. These were often worn with cosmetics to create an androgynous, even effeminate, look.

Victoria and Albert Museum

© V & A Images/Victoria and Albert Museum, London Outfit worn by Adam Ant, 1982

Adam Ant (b.1954)
wool jacket with brass buttons, cotton shirt and neck-tie and leather trousers

Adam Ant's use of historical military and naval uniform – glamorous frockcoats and blousy shirts, coupled with flamboyant make-up and jewellery – helped define the New Romantic look of the early 1980s. This outfit was designed and worn by Adam Ant in the video for his debut solo single 'Goody Two Shoes' which reached number one in the UK in June 1982.

V & A Theatre Collections

© Patrice Stable/John Galliano 'Pirate' ensemble, 2004

John Galliano (b. 1960)
wool and cotton jacket and cotton toga

By reinterpreting the style and cutting of 18th-century naval uniform, John Galliano's spring/summer 2005 menswear collection revisited the glamour of the golden age of piracy. This highly individual piece uses the traditional cut of a sailor's jacket, combined with military styling and beachwear.

John Galliano Homme

© NMM Neg. no.F6813-002 Russian navy vest and bell-bottom trousers, 1940s

trousers by F.W. Harmer & Co.
cotton vest and serge trousers

The striped sweater and flared 'bell-bottom' trousers are two of the most enduring nautical garments. This look was popularized in the 1920s by the French designer Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel (1883–1971) who could be seen dressed in her boyish striped sweater and 'yachting pants' on the bohemian French Riviera.

NMM UNI1308 / UNI4025