The Exhibition
This section looks at the way in which nautical styles have been used by cutting edge designers and different social groups to create new identities, denote belonging to a particular set, or to signify their positioning outside of the mainstream 'establishment'. Key objects include a reefer jacket from Yves Saint-Laurent's spring/summer 1966 collection, a 'pirate' outfit from Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter 1981 collection and historic naval uniform that provided the inspiration for some of fashion's most iconic looks.
Captain's undress coat, late 18th centurywool with brass buttons
Elements of 19th-century naval uniform – loose-fitting shirts, breeches, cocked hat and frock-coat – were influential sources in the development of the 'New Romantic' look. Popularized by musicians such as Adam Ant and Duran Duran, New Romanticism was the natural successor to the flamboyance of glam-rock. It emerged in Britain in the early 1980s and drew upon the free-spiritedness and elegance of history's pirates and dandies, to create a highly sexualized look.
NMM UNI0012
'Pirate' outfit, 1981Vivienne Westwood (b. 1941)
cotton jacket, waistcoat, shirt, trousers and sash and felt hat and suede bootsFor her inaugural catwalk collection in spring 1981, self-trained British designer Vivienne Westwood chose the theme of 'pirates'. Encouraged by her partner Malcolm McClaren to 'do something romantic', Westwood created a look which heavily referenced naval styling of the 17th to 19th centuries.
Victoria and Albert Museum
Drawings for the KENZO spring/summer collection, 1978Kenzo Takada (b. 1939)
pencil on paperJapanese designer Kenzo Takada launched the KENZO brand in Paris, in 1970. KENZO quickly became known for its bold and abstract use of colour, and its fusion of traditional Japanese styles with relaxed tailoring. These design drawings, which emphasize the exaggerated masculinity of the sailor style, use the traditional elements of the reefer jacket, striped T-shirt, pirate bandana and sailor trousers.
KENZO
