Pair of handmade trousers made of blue and white striped ticken

Sailor’s slops of unknown provenance made of blue and white canvas material cut short and styled quite wide. Visible stitching in places, perhaps especially around the waistband. The weave of the fabric is quite rough. The trousers tie in the back with short white ties across a slightly gaping waistband that is opening towards the bottom. There is visible stitching on top of the waistband where the ties are attached. The back right leg features a visible mend in a crescent-shape. There is minor staining in vague black and red shades in a few places, as well as a mend along the right leg outer seam and a large orange stain on the front right leg. The front features three buttons, all of slightly different colors and stitching patterns. The buttonholes are carefully if unevenly sewn. (Only one button would be visible once buttoned; the other two would be inside placket.) Additional pouchy fabric in bum area. Lining is a lighter cotton material in canvas color. Garment is fully hand-sewn.

This pair of trousers is typical of the clothing worn by a sailor in the early part of the 19th century. Ratings did not have an official uniform until 1857; however, they did wear clothing that was instantly recognizable as sailors’ dress. In addition to trousers like these, or at an earlier date, petticoat breeches, ratings’ ensembles also included a check or striped blouse, waistcoat, neckerchief, and a single-breasted blue coat. Much of this was ready-made clothing known as ‘slops’ and could be purchased from the purser of the ship on which the sailor was serving.

The ‘slop’ system is first mentioned in 1623, though it was optional for sailors to buy articles from the purser. The articles sold seem to have been confined to canvas jackets, waistcoats and underclothing. The variety of slops was extended under Charles II, who took a personal interest in the outfitting of his sailors. By the beginning of the eighteenth century, the quality and price of clothing had improved. Items mentioned in a contract made by the Commissioners of the Admiralty with a Mr Richard Harnage in 1706 include ‘Strip’d Breeches’ .

Surviving examples of dress prior to the introduction of uniform regulations for ratings are rare. The variations produced by the ‘slop’ system are well represented in popular prints, occasionally in a painting and in porcelain and pottery figures from the latter half of the eighteenth century.

Object Details

ID: ZBA8736
Type: Trousers
Display location: Display - Nelson, Navy, Nation Gallery
Creator: Unknown
Date made: Early 19th century
Credit: National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London
Measurements: 480 (waistband, approx) x 720 (leg length from waist) mm
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